The Rise and Fall of the Banana Industry: Sam Zemurray's Legacy
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Chapter 1: A Fruit with a Rich History
Take a moment to admire that banana in the accompanying photo. Doesn't it look appealing? It's displayed next to a mask I purchased in Costa Rica, a zampoña (flute) I acquired in Chile, and a gourd from my travels in Costa Rica. The banana in this image also has its roots in Latin America, as indicated by the Chiquita® label. In fact, the banana you're enjoying now probably hails from there as well.
Keep that company in mind; it plays a significant role in the contemporary narrative of bananas. However, I will return to Chiquita® later.
Bananas: An Ancient Crop
Surprisingly, bananas have a long-standing history. Early settlers in Papua New Guinea are believed to have arrived as early as 5000 B.C. and began cultivating bananas shortly thereafter, as noted by National Geographic. Around the same period, other regions in the Malay Archipelago, including Indonesia and the Philippines, were also engaging in banana cultivation.
Even today, scientists show keen interest in the ancient bananas from Papua New Guinea. These varieties possess genes that could help safeguard one of the world's most favored fruits against climate change, pests, and diseases, according to ABC News Australia.
The Role of Bananas in Global Conflicts
Given the extensive history of bananas, it’s not surprising that this fruit has been a focal point in various global conflicts. After all, bananas are popular; soldiers enjoy them too. When one culture conquers another, it's only logical that they would take their bananas home.
Consider Alexander the Great, who brought bananas back to Europe after invading India in 327 B.C. Similarly, in the 1st century B.C., Muslim Arabs introduced bananas to East Africa, using them as currency for slaves, as reported by Mashed. By 650 A.D., Middle Eastern soldiers referred to the fruit as 'banan,' a term derived from the Arabic word for 'finger.'
In 1516, Spanish missionaries not only aimed to convert locals to Christianity but also sought to introduce bananas into their diets, as highlighted by National Geographic. In the New World, enslaved individuals were often compelled to cultivate and harvest bananas, according to Mashed.
Bananas in America: A Turning Point
Spanish settlers attempted to cultivate bananas in Florida during the early 1600s, but their efforts met with limited success. It wasn't until the 1876 World's Fair in Philadelphia that bananas gained popularity in the United States. As noted by the Pennsylvania Museum, the fair featured "wonders and marvels never before witnessed," including the banana.
With American interest in bananas skyrocketing, the Boston Fruit Company began importing them from the West Indies. The company aggressively promoted its product along the Eastern seaboard, distributing bananas to cities such as Boston, Philadelphia, Mobile, New Orleans, and New York, as recorded by the New Orleans Historical Collection.
The Banana Boom in Latin America
However, it was in Latin America where the Boston Fruit Company, later rebranded as the United Fruit Company in 1899, truly flourished. Throughout the late 1800s and into the early 1900s, the United Fruit Company expanded its influence across various Central and South American nations.
Pablo Neruda, the Nobel Prize-winning Chilean poet, captured his thoughts on the company in a poem titled "The United Fruit Company," where he remarked: "The Fruit Company, Inc. reserved for itself the most succulent, the central coast of my own land, the delicate waist of America."
The term 'Banana Republic' originated from the United Fruit Company's extensive control in Latin America. By 1946, the firm owned vast tracts of land across multiple countries, including Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Guatemala, and Honduras, according to National Geographic. The company was not averse to meddling in local politics, which we will explore later.
Gabriel García Márquez's novel "One Hundred Years of Solitude" illustrates the arrival of the Banana Company (presumably United Fruit) in the fictional town of Macondo, bringing both modernity and destruction. As García writes, the company "changed the pattern of rains, accelerated the cycle of harvests and moved the river from where it had always been," as recounted in a commentary by a reporter for The New York Times.
The Political Influence of United Fruit Company
The United Fruit Company significantly impacted the political landscape of Latin American countries where it operated. According to a publication by the University of Toronto, "The United Fruit Company consolidated its power through various means: it installed authoritarian civilian and military governments that gave concessions to land, railroads, and ports; it divided its labor force along ethnic and racial lines."
Corrupt leaders in impoverished Latin American nations often welcomed the chance to sell land to United Fruit and grant it generous tax breaks. As highlighted in Country Studies: Honduras, "Companies [in Honduras] gained exemptions from taxes and permission to construct wharves and roads, as well as permission to improve interior waterways and to obtain charters for new railroad construction."
The 'Banana Man' and His Controversial Tactics
Sam Zemurray, a Russian immigrant known as 'Sam the banana man,' arrived in New Orleans with little more than a dream at the age of 14 but amassed wealth by 21, as reported by the New York Post. Zemurray devised innovative methods to expedite banana delivery to markets and acquired extensive land in Honduras and other countries.
In 1911, Zemurray proposed a plan to reinstate the exiled Honduran president Manuel Bonilla. Honduras had a substantial debt to British banks, which posed a threat of invasion. The United States had a plan to aid Honduras in settling this debt, but it would undermine the United Fruit Company's influence.
To safeguard his interests, Zemurray orchestrated Bonilla's return to power in 1912. Bonilla subsequently rewarded Zemurray with land concessions and favorable tax arrangements.
United Fruit's Unexpected Role in Postal Services
In an unusual turn of events, Guatemala hired the United Fruit Company to oversee its postal service in 1901. By 1913, the company established the Tropical Radio and Telegraph Company to manage its radio network. This arrangement raises eyebrows, as it would be akin to the U.S. government contracting a tech giant to run the postal service.
Decline of United Fruit Company
Zemurray actively supported corrupt regimes and helped overthrow democratically elected leaders throughout Latin America. After retiring from the United Fruit Company in 1951, he passed away in 1961. However, the company's decline began shortly thereafter, as its activities came under global scrutiny, according to The End of History.
A contributing factor to the company's downfall was the Panama disease, a devastating fungal infection affecting banana crops. To combat this, the company attempted to improve soil quality by depositing silt from rivers and swamps, a strategy that ultimately failed, as noted by Gala, a learning platform.
With the strengthening of labor laws in Latin America targeting United Fruit and a decrease in banana demand due to the rise of processed fruit, the company diversified its operations and eventually merged with AMK Corporation. In 1990, it rebranded as Chiquita Brands® International.
Chiquita's Controversial Legacy
Chiquita®, like its predecessor, has faced numerous controversies. In 2007, the company agreed to pay a $25 million fine to the U.S. Department of Justice for illegally funding Colombian terrorist groups for protection, violating U.S. anti-terrorism financing laws, according to CNN.
Today, Chiquita® dominates about one-third of the global banana export market, as noted by The Atlantic. Nevertheless, the majority of banana plantations are monocultures, with approximately 97% of internationally traded bananas derived from the Cavendish variety, according to BananaLink, which advocates for sustainable banana production.
The Importance of Genetic Diversity
This brings us back to the scientists studying the genetic diversity of bananas in Papua New Guinea. Such diversity is crucial for protecting varieties like Cavendish from the adverse impacts of climate change, pests, and diseases, as highlighted by Belgian scientist Sebastien Carpentier, who led a 2020 expedition to study these ancient bananas, according to ABC News Australia.
So, as you enjoy that banana in your hand, consider the significance of protecting rainforests over 9,000 miles away—it's vital not just for your enjoyment but also for the future of this beloved fruit.
The first video titled "The Evil Business of Bananas" explores the darker aspects of the banana industry, touching on exploitation and economic impact.
The second video, "Sam Zemurray: The Banana Man Who Built an Empire," delves into the life of Zemurray and his significant influence on the banana trade.